S ekspedicije “Motociklom po zapadnoj Africi”
od listopada 2010 do travnja 2011.
Tekst i fotografije: Davor Rostuhar
Izvorno objavljeno u časopisu Autoklub
U ritmu “Mournha” muzike
Malecka državica uglavnom je poznata po najboljem karnevalu u Africi i „mournha“ muzici koju je po svijetu proslavila bosonoga diva Cesaria Evora.
Otočje ne vidimo iz zraka jer slijećemo u glavni grad Praiu po mraku. Prva slika Cabo Verdea stoga nam je atmosfera šanka u malenom hotelu u predgrađu. Stara kolonijalna kuća sa zatvorenim dvorištem u sredini puna je tropskog bilja, majmuna i papiga, ali prazna gostiju. Tek je malo života u suterenskom baru. Konobarica neprestano toči grog i ponch – lokalne alkoholne napitke od šećerne trske, a za šankom ih ispija ekipa iz kvarta – jedan galamdžija, drugi intelektualac, treći šutljiv, četvrti srdačan, peti mentalno hendikepiran. Srdačan nas veselo pozdravlja i nudi pićem. Na radiju svira nostalgična, sentimentalna mournha muzika.
Galamdžija veselo dijeli s nama podatak da tu pjesmu pjeva Tcheka, dečko iz njihovog kvarta kod kojeg su inspektori iz inozemstva otkrili pjevački talent, pa sada grabi međunarodnim stazama uspjeha sličnim onima koje je već utrla Cesaria Evora. Intelektualac kaže da radi kao meteorolog. Pitamo ga kakvo će vrijeme biti sutra. Kaže „dobro“ naglaskom punim uvjerljivosti. Da će vrijeme i sutra biti dobro zna i svako dijete na ulicama predgrađa Praie, ali intelektualac činjenici daje službeni, znanstveni ton. Kišni dani na Cabo Verdeu rijetki su kao i zelenilo u pustinji.
Ujutro se vozimo do Cidade Velha – jedinog iole zelenog mjesta na tom crnom i pustom otoku – gdje su se Portugalci iskrcali 1462 godine i osnovali prvo europsko naselje u tropima. Do tad prazne i nenaseljene otoke počeli su naseljavati Europljani i njihovi afrički robovi. Kroz stoljeća su se dvije rase toliko izmiješale da su stvorile jednu od najzanimljivijih mulatskih fizionomija. Brončana put, kovrčava tamna kosa i često svijetle oči – neobična su kombinacija ljepote koja je proslavila osebujne portrete Kaboverđana diljem svijeta.

Život je usporen u maloj otočnoj državi usred Atlantika
Nakon otoka Santiaga na kojem se smjestila Praia, letimo za otok Sal – jedan od najpustijih ali i turistički najposjećenijih otoka kaboverdskog arhipelaga. Otok čini nekoliko davno ugaslih vulkana, masa crnog kamenja i pijeska i tek ponegdje koja palma. Dok se vozimo kvadom po otoku imamo osjećaj da smo na komadiću Sahare bačenom u ocean. Ta zaokružena pustoš, taj sukob pustinje i oceana, ta bezvodnost unutar vode i život unutar ništavila čine neobičnu privlačnost Cabo Verdea u koju su zaljubljeni mnogi putnici zasićeni idealističkim slikama tropske egzotike i željni originalnosti.
Otok Sal kao ultimativni, suštinski kaboverdski krajolik privlači ponajviše turista. Od onih najbogatijih za koje se u toj pustoši izgradio golf teren koji guta toliko desalinizirane vode koliko bi bilo dovoljno za grad od 18 000 stanovnika, do onih pustolova zaljubljenih u vjetar i valove kojima za život ne treba ništa osim otvorenog horizonta i malo adrenalina.
„Život je val“ kaže nam Goran iz Pule koji svaku zimu provodi na Salu radeći kao menadžer u najpoznatijem windsurf klubu „Angulo“. Srčani windsurfer objašnjava nam osnovne principe tog sporta pritom otkrivajući jednostavnu filozofiju života skovanu beskrajnim vremenom provedenim na suncu, pijesku i slanoj vodi – „Valovi se dižu u pet-šest razina i nikad ne znaš gdje će biti najbolje. Tehnika, snaga i vještina bitni su ti da dobro surfaš, da pritom uživaš i da te val ne poklopi. Ali da pogodiš gdje će biti najbolji val treba ti feeling!“
Njegov sugrađanin i prijatelj po vjetru Demijan sa suprugom se trajno preselio na Cabo Verde. „Ovdje je vjetar najbolji na svijetu“ objašnjava nam Demijan „Surferi iz cijelog svijeta idu na Havaje jer misle da je tamo najbolje. Ali svi Havajci dolaze ovamo!“
Sljedeći otok koji posjećujemo je Santo Antao – sušta suprotnost Salu – jedini zeleni otok u arhipelagu i jedino opravdanje imenu „zeleni rt“. Taksi nas od luke vozi do vrha vulkana na 1300 metara visine. U krateru obavijenom u oblake vidimo plodna polja i vesele farmere. Slika bogatstva neobična za pusto otočje. Odatle se pješice spuštamo niz strme padine vulkana dolinom Vale do Paul. Opija nas bujno, zarošeno zelenilo i velika količina svježe vode koja se vješto istkanim kanalima slijeva iz vrta u vrt. Banane, papaje, šećerna trska i gotovo sve povrće kojeg se možete sjetiti uspijevaju na terasastim vrtovima tih plodnih padina.
Ugodno planinarenje prekidamo na tren u jednom selu u gostionici „Sandro“ gdje nas istoimeni vlasnik nudi domaćim rumom od kokosa. Dok pijemo slatki bijeli napitak i uživamo u svježini zelenila, Francuz Sandro nam priča svoju priču. Bio je vrlo mlad kad je otišao u Kolumbiju, navukao se na kokain i upao u nasilje između kartela. Kad mu je voda došla do grla, odlučio je pobjeći iz pakla droge i nasilja. Uskočio na prvi brod za Europu koji je putem preko oceana zastao na otoku Santo Antao. Opijen ljepotom i mirom atlantskog utočišta, Sandro neplanirano sišao s broda i odlučio ostati. Od tog događaja prije 14 godina nikad nije napustio otok, niti to planira. Oženio se za mještanku te s njom dobio nekoliko djece, a zajedno vode malu gostionu u kojoj turistima prodaju domaći rum od kokosa.
Na posljetku dolazimo na otok Sao Vicente, u mjesto Mindelo koje se smatra najljepšim kolonijalnim mjestom na arhipelagu i koje je poznato po festivalu „Mardi gras“ – najluđem karnevalu u Africi. Smješten u plavetnom beskraju između Brazila i Afrike, kaboverdski karneval je poprimio najbolje od obiju dalekih obala. Afrički ritmovi i zvukovi izmiješali su se sa brazilskim stilom i seksualnošću te izrodili jedinstvenu tradiciju koja se klesala više od stotinu godina. Zadnjih dvadesetak godina karneval je postao toliko bitan mještanima Sao Vicentea da predstavlja okosnicu njihovog identiteta.

Karneval na Cabo Verdeu je najveći karneval u Africi
Prva dva dana karnevala spontani su spektakl, a treći dan – pokladni utorak – organizirani je vrhunac festivala. Prve dane ljudi se spontano okupljaju na rivi i formiraju veselu povorku koja prolazi gradom. Svaki kvart drži se skupa i osmišljava vlastitu kostimografiju i maškaradu. Uz klasično karnevalsko slavljeničko raspoloženje, uz pregršt smijeha, cike, vriske, prštanja i plesa, spontana povorka neumorno kruži ulicama dan i noć i poput nekog magneta u sebe usisava cijeli grad.
Za to vrijeme u posebnim hangarima u predgrađima, radna atmosfera raste do usijanja. Još u prosincu svaki glavni kvart započeo je izradu „andoraša“ – ogromnih pokretnih postolja koja će zadnjeg dana karnevala provesti gradom. Kvartovi se međusobno natječu tko će napraviti neobičniji, bajkovitiji i spektakularniji „andoraš“, ali svima je zajedničko jedno – posao se odužio do zadnjeg trena. Čak i u noći uoči velikog utorka majstori još uvijek nanose boju na golema postolja.
„Karneval je kreativno vrijeme – sav narod ima priliku da se umjetnički izrazi!“ kaže nam Luis Coutou, pedesetogodišnji kaboverdski fotograf koji cijeli život prati karneval i dokumentira njegov rast i promjene. „Kroz cijelu godinu ljudi Cabo Verdea obični su siromašni ljudi, ali za vrijeme karnevala svi se osjećaju posebni. Karneval je vrijeme kad se svatko osjeća jedinstveno i bogato i ponosan je na svoje mjesto i nasljeđe!“
Raskoš njihovog nasljeđa dolazi do punog izražaja posljednji dan karnevala. Kako se spušta večer na Mindelo, tako vrije krv u žilama svih mještana. Mindelo ima tek 50 000 ljudi, ali svi su vani, svi piju, svi plešu. Kroz kolonijalne ulice probijaju se golema neobična postolja koja još mirišu na boju. Na njima plešu žene odjevene u najraskošnije kostime. Između andoraša lelulaju šarene grupe plesača i orkestri svirača. Ista slavljenička melodija ponavlja se u beskraj, a ljudi plešu i kruže gradom toliko dugo dok svi ne padnu u trans. Tad se forma opet gubi, briše se granica između povorke i publike, između sna i jave. Cijeli grad na otočju usred Atlantika je usisan i pleše i pleše, cijelu noć, kao da nikad neće stati.
Po otočju kvadom, skuterom i pješice
Našeg vjernog Pegaza koji nas je na svoja dva kotača dovezao iz Zagreba do Senegala, ostavili smo na deset dana u Dakaru da se malo odmori od nas i pripremi za nastavak putovanja, a mi smo odletjeli na Cabo Verde avionom. Arhipelag čini deset velikih otoka i pet malih od kojih je devet naseljeno. Mi smo posjetili četiri veća otoka, a za istraživanje njihove unutrašnjosti unajmili bi neko vozilo ili uposlili vlastite noge. Zeleni otok Sao Vicente istražili smo pješice, otok Sal kvadom, a Sao Vicente skuterom. Nakon što je Maja otrpjela tri mjeseca putovanja na suvozačkom mjestu došlo je vrijeme da se zamijenimo za volanom. Iako nikad prije nije vozila ni kvad ni motocikl ni skuter, Maja je to odradila bez problema i sa posebnim zadovoljstvom.
Cabo Verde
Naše putovanje motociklom kroz Zapadnu Afriku, putovanje je kroz jednu od najnerazvijenijih i najsiromašnijih regija na svijetu. Iako Cabo Verde geografski i politički pripada u regiju Zapadne Afrike, on po statistici od nje značajno odskače. Dok je očekivani životni vijek u zapadnoafričkim zemljama između41 i 58 godina, na Cabo Verdeu je 71. Pismenost je tu 81 posto nasuprot 24 do 60 posto na kopnenim zemljama. Cabo Verde mjeri dva do 15 puta veći BNP po stanovniku od svojih susjeda, a i jedina je zemlja iz regije koja se na UN-ovom popisu zemalja uspela u društvo „srednje razvijenih zemalja“
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Описание датчиков давления Метран-150
Можно отметить следующие отличительные особенности датчика Метран-150 по сравнению с его предшественниками:
новый улучшенный дизайн и более компактная конструкция;
блок электроники и ЖКИ с клавиатурой могут поворачиваться с шагом 90 гр.;
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на корпусе находится внешняя кнопка, защищенная металлической пластиной установки «нуля»;
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ценовой диапазон, соответствующий бюджетному сегменту отечественных аналогов в отличие от более дорогих устройств иностранного исполнения.
Какие возможности доступны с преобразователем Метран-150:
конструкция модуля сенсора Coplanar обеспечивает гибкость при выборе варианта подсоединения датчика к процессу: или разные фланцевые исполнения, или сборка с вентильными блоками, или сборка с выносными разделительными мембранами;
исполнение М150 для температуры атмосферы до минус 55 гр. дает возможность использовать датчики без установки дополнительных обогревающих устройств;
исполнение с ЖК-индикатором и с локальным интерфейсом позволяет быстро сразу по месту установки датчика производить изменения настроек;
также существует специальное кислородное исполнение.
Управление и перепрограммирование настроек датчика имеет следующие особенности:
возможно на самом преобразователе М150 при помощи универсального HART-коммуникатора;
возможно удаленно при помощи ПО H-Master/Metran-150, HART-модема для преобразователя М150, персонального компьютера или находящихся на производстве средств программирования АСУТП;
возможно при помощи специального прибора, поставляемого на заказ, оснащенного ЖКИ с пленочной клавиатурой.
В каких средах может эксплуатироваться преобразователь Метран-150:
в жидких кислотных и щелочных;
в условиях сухого или влажного пара;
в продуктах нефтеперегонки;
в разнообразных газообразных, в газовых смесях и конденсатах.
Датчик может измерять давление тех сред, которые не вызывают коррозионные изменения материалов, с ними контактирующих. Специально очищенные преобразователи предназначены для измерения давления кислорода в газообразном состоянии и кислородосодержащих смесей (опция кислородного исполнения — UC).
Датчик давления функционирует в следующих диапазонах давления: min — 0-0,025кПа, max — 0-60МПа и в широком диапазоне температур среды от -40гр. до +80гр.
По току различаются следующие типы аналоговых выходных сигналов:
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0-5мА.
В зависимости от модификации может быть следующее взрывозащищенное исполнение:
Exi — искробезопасная цепь;
Exd — взрывонепроницаемая оболочка.
Датчик М150 поддерживается HART коммуникатором серии 375. Производитель дает гарантию на сохранение эксплуатационных характеристик преобразователя — 3 года.
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